The following morning we got a bus from Masaka to Kabale, where we stayed before going to Lake Bunyoni. We got cars from outside the beloved Banana Chick cafe, although this is itself was quite eventful. Markus and I shared the front passenger seat whilst 4 more people got in the back. The man we assumed was the driver (since he was sitting in the driver' seat) then moved over to let the driver in. For a moment I thought one was going to do the gears and one steer! Not gonna lie, my thigh was not a massive fan of second gear!
When we got to the bus station, I was so relieved that Tom had followed us down there as we didn't know where to start! The bus we were getting was already packed to bursting point, and chickens were still being pushed on. Nasa (the driver Tom and Carla usually use) managed to sort us out a matatu (minibus) instead, since there were 11 of us. However, we soon discovered that this space was to be short lived as we picked up passengers along the way, including a couple with a baby, a man with a giant suitcase, and a man with a box of chicks. Instead of 3 people, the front row had six people squashed in!
It was raining as we arrived in Kabale 4 hour later. The journey was supposed to take 6 hours but we absolutely flew down the hills when the driver took the matatu out of gear, and we were going at 120km/hr for most of the journey, bearing in mind the 'highway' doesn't come close toour UK motorways! We spent the night in the Edirisa hostel, which was lovely, cheap and cheerful. We ate in the restaurant there, 'The Nest', snuggled onto sofas, and ate the most amazing meal we'd had in a long time. We ordered so much food, but it was great. I had the best cream of mushroom soup I have ever eaten in my life! For that, garlic bread, coconut curry with chicken, and a drink, it cost me about three quid, and it was three quid very well spent. It was a bit cold up there, but when I was told a hot chocolate would take two and a half hours I gave in!
The next morning we set off for Lake Bunyoni to do our 3 day canoe hike. The first day was quite relaxed, with a couple of hours' canoeing at most. We stopped a few times and saw 'Punishment Island', where women who got pregnant before marriage were sent to die! This ony stopped happening about 50 years ago. The women who were rescued were usually rescued by poor men who couldn't afford to pay a girl's family a dowry, so by rescuing her would just marry her without having to pay. Bit harsh on the women though, since apparently they couldn't prove who the fathers were, and anyway "It's just their manhood!" As if! On one of the islands was a school, which used to be a leprosy clinic. There were signs all over the place saying things like 'Virginity is health' and 'Pornography is a hidden evil'.
As we did our final bit of canoeing for the day, to the place we'd camp that night, the clouds began to darken and the wind picked up. Paddling over waves and into the storm with thunder and lightning overhead, we made it to shore without getting wet. When we got there, a man plonked a roll of about 5 or 6 mattresses on my head and pointed for me to go up the hill. I have no idea how I made it, but I felt like hell when I got to the top, about to drop them all. For some reason we then decided to walk to the very top of the hill, where it then started to chuck it down! Very soggy indeed. We had a campfire that night, in the drizzle and beneath flashes of lightning, but wit delicious goat meat, mmmm. To sleep, we packed 5 in a tent for a big spoon, wrapped up in loads of blankets and were lovely and toasty all night.
On the second day, we all got up ready to hike. Tom and Carla had given us the impression that this was a very easy hike, and we'd been lulled into a false sense of security by the previous day's canoeing. It was an amazing hike, but by no mean easy! We canoed to where we would hike, and then set off to climb Kalembe Hill, 2487m above sea level. Me met the Pygmys along the way, but it was just really weird and felt like we were watching performing monkeys. The views from Kalembe, however, were stunning, and at one point we were only 1km from Rwanda and could have walked right in as there is no border control for 20km. So we could see Uganda, Rwanda, and a hill which apparently borders the Congo. We had Mars bars and Snickers half way up, which was the best surprise ever as we were already all so shattered! When we finally reached the peak, we had an amazing lunch there, with cheese for the first time in a month! And nutella, pringles, bananas etc. Ham in a tin just made my week! I swear I get far too excited over food!
The rest of the walk had stunning views, but we were followed for ages by kids shouting "Give me a bottle!" and "Give me money!" which actually started to feel quite threatening after a while, when we felt a bit surrounded, like they were waiting for the right opportunity. We were so, so tired when we reached the canoes, and had to paddle fast to avoid getting caught in another storm. We were lucky (apparently because we ate so many bananas) that it didn't rain until we reached the shore, but we did have wet tent issues. A slightly colder night's sleep, but thankfully a dry one after mopping up the floors with spare mattresses. That night we had even more amazing food, and to my disbelief we actually had really nice matoki! Must just be the food at Lwannunda that's not that nice, as this was amazing.
The third day saw the final few hours of canoeing, which got a bit competitive at the end. We ended up at the Birdnest for lunch, which has absolutely stunning views over Lake Bunyoni. After all making full use of western toilets, we faced the most amazing food yet. It was an incredible buffet of fish, chicken, chips, rice, salad, proper veg., etc: amazing. When we'd all recovered a bit we went for a swim in the lake, since the pool like a pond and wasn't free, pus we can say we swam in the second deepest lake in Africa (900m). :) I was about to dive in, when Mathias grabbed me round the waist and picked me up. I thought he was going to throw me in, but he actually just jumped in, still holding me, which was quite painful and my rib's a bit sore. The water was really cold and took my breath away, but I did feel a bit cleaner. Cannot wait for a shower in Jinja tonight!
Last night was our last night at the school. :( It's sad to leave as it felt so homely after a month, but I'm really excited for travelling! We arrived back in Masaka at about half 8 last night, but didn't leave for another 2 hours as Carla had a bit of a jigga-thon. They're little parasites that get in your toes, and Mathias had 9 in one toe! Jon and Kate also had one, and Annabelle discovered one this morning. Mathias had tried to remove them himself with a pen knife at Bunyoni, and I'm amazed there's anything left of his toe now!
Off to Jinja tonight. Absolutely bricking it about bungee jumping in the morning, but rate excited for white water rafting on the Nile afterwards! Travelling from Jinja, generally just really excited, although it will be sad to see Mike, Mathias and Markus leave to fly home.
Good luck with results today Claire. :)
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